Guide to Michigan’s Wine Scene
Earlier this summer, I traveled to Northern Michigan with my boyfriend Cris and we had a chance to visit a few wineries in the Traverse City area. Now I know that Michigan is not at the top of the list for major wine regions around the world, but I was born in Michigan, so the state holds a special place in my heart.
When folks think of American wines, they think of California, Oregon, Washington State, and maybe New York State, but Michigan isn’t typically at the top of the list. So, I honestly didn’t put a lot of weight into Michigan wineries and assumed everything would be subpar. But, one of my good friends from college recommended we check a few wineries out for the beautiful views, so we decided to give them a shot for atmosphere alone. And naturally if we were going to be there, we had to sip on something, right? And wow was I surprised! We found that there are some really good quality wines in the Old Mission and Leelenau Peninsulas that I honestly would not have thought were from Michigan if I had been in a blind tasting!
To listen to my full review of the Michigan wine regions, be sure to listen to The Wine CEO Podcast Episode #37!
History, Climate, & Region
The wine industry has been around Northern Michigan for a little under a century, but it wasn’t until the late 1960s that vitis vinifera was planted. (Vitis vinifera is the species of grape native to Europe and Asia. It’s the root of modern wine varietals - think pinot noir, merlot, chardonnay, riesling, etc.) So it’s only in the last 50 years or so that major grapes have been planted in Michigan.
Traverse City has the potential for making good wine because it sits along the 45th parallel of the Northern Hemisphere, which creates a temperate climate for growing grapes. Michigan is surrounded by water and experiences lake effect snow during the winter, but the climate is still mild enough in spring, summer, and fall to support grape growing.
This climate in Traverse City means that thinner skinner grape varietals do really well here. So, naturally white wines and sparkling whites are going to do much better here than reds. Riesling is by far one of the most planted and most popular grapes in the region, but Chardonnay & Gewürztraminer are also very common. The reds that are grown here are light to medium bodied varietals like Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. There are also a lot of blends made with local varietals and well known vitis vinifera varietals.
In the map to the right, regions 2 & 4 show the two main wine regions in the Traverse City area. Number 4 is a 19 mile peninsula that juts out into the center of Traverse Bay. This Peninsula is called the Old Mission Peninsula and has become the most famous AVA, or America Viticultural Area, for Michigan. Along the west side of the water, region #2, is the Leelanau Peninsula that stretches along the coast of the Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. Both of these peninsulas tout dozens of wineries as well as beautiful views of the Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan coast.
As you can see from the map, there are 5 AVAs in Michigan. Sadly there’s not much to say about Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, and Tip of the Mitt right now. I hope that changes in the future, but for now the Old Mission & Leelanau Peninsulas are the heart of the Michigan wine scene.
Visiting Old Mission & Leelanau Peninsulas
I admit I was really surprised at how peaceful and stunning this region was. Maybe because it was in my own backyard and I played in soccer tournaments in Traverse City as a kid, I discounted this region. But it really is beautiful.
Now I’m not going to say that every wine coming out of Michigan is amazing. I still think it has a long way to go before it will truly get some world acclaim, but it is worth checking out for a long weekend. This isn’t busy like Napa Valley or Sonoma; it’s quaint, unpretentious, and slow paced. It’s also really convenient to get around. The wineries are all within a few miles of one another which makes for an easy day of visiting multiple spots and trying lots of wines.
There are also a lot of great tour companies that will drive you through the region so you can drink responsibly. Below are some awesome tour groups including one that offers bike tours of the area!
Wineries
There are so many amazing wineries to check out in the Old Mission & Leelanau Peninsulas, but I’ve rounded up my favorites below:
First up is Chateau Grand Traverse. This winery is the largest commercial winery in Northern Michigan and they are credited with putting Old Mission Peninsula on the map. They have a large portfolio of wines and are especially known for their sweet rieslings. If you’re in the area, expect it to be busy, but it’s worth the visit.
One of my favorite wineries was Bonobo Winery. Modern and chic, they have a cute outdoor area where you can sit on swings and enjoy a glass of wine while sitting in the vines. They also have some delicious small plate appetizers that are designed by Chef Mario Batali.
Chateau Chantal boasts some of the best views in the Old Mission Peninsula and Traverse Bay. The wines were not the best we tried on the peninsula, but the views were stunning and they offer live jazz concerts in the summer.
The best wines I found in the Traverse City area were at L Mawby Winery. This winery is located in the Leelanau Peninsula and specializes in sparkling wines that are made in the traditional Champagne method as well as the Charmat, tank method. The winery is quaint, but serene. And the wines are really delicious!
Last is 2 Lads Winery, known for their Cabernet Franc. Their tasting room is uber modern and sleek and is really beautiful with floor to ceiling windows that showcase the Traverse City Bay.
There are tons of other great wineries like Tabor Hill, Shady Lane, and Peninsula Cellars as well - so you truly will not run out of amazing places to check out in the area.
Restaurants & Breweries in Traverse City
The food scene was also surprisingly delicious in Traverse City. It probably helps that Mario Batali has a summer home in the Leelanau Peninsula, but this is truly an area that is on the map for up and coming culinary finds! Below were some of my favorite spots:
Folgarelli’s (Italian Market)
Poppycock’s (dinner, live music, and cocktails)
Spanglish (yummy Mexican food)
Moomer’s (local ice cream)
Grand Traverse Pie Company (cafe with amazing cherry pie! Traverse City is the cherry capital of the world!)
If you love beer, Michigan is also known for having an amazing craft beer scene. The Traverse City area has a beer trail with dozens of amazing breweries. I loved Right Brain Brewery, but Grand Traverse and Mackinac Brewing are also awesome. So many amazing options and I’ll link a few of these as well.